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Why Are My Snapchat Notifications Not Showing Up in 2026? (Full Fix Guide)

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Crazyerror

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March 6, 2026

Why Are My Snapchat Notifications Not Showing Up in 2026? (Full Fix Guide)

Have you ever been waiting for a reply on Snapchat, only to realize your phone never actually notified you? You open the app and — boom — five unread snaps and three messages sitting there silently. It’s frustrating, especially when missing a notification can mean missing something important.

You’re not alone. Thousands of Snapchat users in 2026 are reporting the exact same issue. The good news? In most cases, it’s completely fixable — and it usually takes less than five minutes.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through every possible reason your Snapchat notifications aren’t showing up, and give you clear, step-by-step fixes for both iPhone and Android.

Read: Why Does Snapchat Keep Logging Me Out Automatically? (Fix Guide)

Why Snapchat Notifications Stop Working — The Short Answer

Before jumping into fixes, it helps to understand why this happens. Snapchat notifications can stop working for a handful of reasons:

Your phone’s notification settings got changed (sometimes after an OS update)
Snapchat’s own in-app notification settings were accidentally turned off
Battery optimization on Android is silencing background apps
A minor app glitch or corrupted cache is causing the problem
Do Not Disturb or Focus Mode is filtering out Snapchat alerts
You’re running an outdated version of Snapchat that has a known bug
Snapchat’s servers are temporarily having issues on their end

Most of these are easy to fix. Let’s go through them one by one.

Fix 1: Check Your Phone’s Notification Settings for Snapchat

This is the most common cause — and most people skip right past it.

On iPhone (iOS 17/18):

Open the Settings app
Scroll down and tap Snapchat
Tap Notifications
Make sure Allow Notifications is toggled ON
Check that Alerts, Banners, or Lock Screen options are enabled based on your preference
Also check that Sounds is turned on if you want audio alerts

On Android (Android 14/15):

Go to Settings
Tap Apps or Application Manager
Find and tap Snapchat
Tap Notifications
Make sure notifications are toggled ON
Check individual notification categories like Snaps, Chats, and Friend Activity

Pro Tip: On some Android devices (Samsung, OnePlus, Xiaomi), there’s also a separate notification panel in the phone’s quick settings. Make sure Snapchat isn’t blocked there either.

Fix 2: Check Snapchat’s In-App Notification Settings

Even if your phone allows Snapchat notifications, Snapchat itself has its own notification controls inside the app. These can get reset after an update.

Here’s how to check:

Open Snapchat
Tap your profile icon (top left)
Tap the gear icon (Settings) in the top right
Scroll down and tap Notifications
Go through each toggle — Friend Suggestions, Snaps, Chats, Stories, Live — and turn on what you want
Make sure Enable Notifications at the top is switched ON

It sounds simple, but a surprising number of people find that this is where the problem was hiding all along.

Fix 3: Turn Off Battery Optimization for Snapchat (Android)

This one is huge for Android users and gets overlooked all the time.

Android’s battery optimization feature is designed to save power by restricting apps running in the background. The problem is, it often restricts Snapchat so aggressively that notifications never come through.

Here’s how to fix it:

Go to Settings → Battery
Tap Battery Optimization or App Battery Usage
Find Snapchat in the list
Select Don’t Optimize or Unrestricted
Save and restart your phone

On some brands like Xiaomi or Realme, you may also need to enable Autostart for Snapchat:

Go to Settings → Apps → Manage Apps
Find Snapchat
Toggle on Autostart

After doing this, notifications usually come back immediately.

Fix 4: Disable Do Not Disturb or Focus Mode

Both iPhone and Android now have powerful Focus and Do Not Disturb modes that can completely silence apps — including Snapchat.

On iPhone:

Swipe into Control Center
Check if Focus or Do Not Disturb is active (it’ll be highlighted)
Tap to turn it off

OR, if you want Snapchat to work even with Focus on:

Go to Settings → Focus
Select your active Focus mode
Tap Apps under “Allowed Notifications”
Add Snapchat to the allowed list

On Android:

Go to Settings → Sound → Do Not Disturb
Make sure it’s turned off, or add Snapchat as an exception

Fix 5: Clear Snapchat’s Cache

A corrupted or oversized cache can cause all kinds of weird Snapchat behavior — including broken notifications. Clearing it is safe and won’t delete your account, messages, or memories.

On iPhone:

Snapchat has a built-in cache clearing tool:

Open Snapchat → tap your profile icon
Go to Settings → Account Actions
Tap Clear Cache → confirm

On Android:

Go to Settings → Apps → Snapchat
Tap Storage
Tap Clear Cache (do NOT tap “Clear Data” unless you want to log out)

After clearing the cache, restart the app and test your notifications.

Fix 6: Update Snapchat to the Latest Version

Running an outdated version of Snapchat is a common cause of notification failures, especially after Snapchat releases a major update that changes how push notifications are handled.

On iPhone:

Open the App Store
Tap your profile icon at the top right
Scroll to find Snapchat
Tap Update if one is available

On Android:

Open the Google Play Store
Search for Snapchat
Tap Update if it’s showing

After updating, restart your phone and check if notifications are working.

Fix 7: Log Out and Log Back Into Snapchat

Sometimes a simple session refresh is all it takes to kick the notification system back into gear.

Open Snapchat → tap your profile icon
Go to Settings → Log Out
Confirm log out
Wait 30 seconds
Log back in with your username and password
Allow notification permissions when prompted

This re-establishes Snapchat’s connection to the push notification system, which often resolves the problem right away.

Fix 8: Reinstall Snapchat

If nothing else has worked, reinstalling the app is your best bet. This wipes any corrupted files and gives you a completely fresh install.

Uninstall Snapchat from your phone
Restart your phone
Go to the App Store or Play Store and reinstall Snapchat
Log in with your credentials
When asked about notifications, tap Allow

Your account, friends list, and Memories are all saved to Snapchat’s servers, so nothing is lost.

Fix 9: Check If Snapchat Is Down

Sometimes the problem isn’t on your end at all — Snapchat’s push notification servers go down occasionally.

To check:

Visit downdetector.com and search for Snapchat
Check Snapchat’s official Twitter/X account (@Snapchat) for service announcements
Search “Snapchat down” on Google to see if others are reporting the same issue in real time

If there’s a widespread outage, all you can do is wait. Snapchat typically resolves server issues within a few hours.

Fix 10: Restart Your Phone

It sounds almost too simple, but a full phone restart can fix notification issues caused by background processes getting stuck.

Hold the power button, select Restart (not just lock screen), and wait for it to fully boot back up. Then open Snapchat and see if the notifications come through.

Still Not Working? Try These Extra Steps

If you’ve tried all of the above and notifications still aren’t coming through, here are a few more things worth checking:

Check if you muted a friend or group: Open a chat → tap the person’s name → check if notifications are muted for that specific conversation
Check your phone’s storage: If your phone is critically low on storage, it can affect app performance and notifications
Make sure Snapchat has background refresh enabled: On iPhone, go to Settings → General → Background App Refresh → make sure Snapchat is ON
Reset network settings: On iPhone, go to Settings → General → Transfer or Reset iPhone → Reset → Reset Network Settings (note: this will clear saved Wi-Fi passwords)

Summary: Quick Fix Checklist

Here’s a fast reference you can bookmark:

#	Fix	Works Best For
1	Check phone notification settings	Both iPhone & Android
2	Check Snapchat’s in-app notifications	Both
3	Disable battery optimization	Android mainly
4	Turn off Do Not Disturb / Focus Mode	Both
5	Clear Snapchat cache	Both
6	Update Snapchat	Both
7	Log out and back in	Both
8	Reinstall Snapchat	Both
9	Check if Snapchat is down	Both
10	Restart your phone	Both

Final Thoughts

Missing Snapchat notifications is annoying, but it’s almost always fixable. The most common culprits in 2026 are battery optimization settings on Android, accidental changes to Focus Mode on iPhone, or a small app glitch that clears up after a restart or cache wipe.

Work through the fixes in order — start with the notification settings, then move to the battery and Focus fixes, and if those don’t work, try clearing the cache or reinstalling the app. In 90% of cases, one of these steps will solve the problem.

If you found this guide helpful, feel free to share it with a friend who’s having the same issue. And if none of the fixes worked for you, drop a comment below with your phone model and Snapchat version — we’ll try to help you figure it out.

Why Does Snapchat Keep Logging Me Out Automatically? (Fix Guide)

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Crazyerror

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February 26, 2026

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Why Does Snapchat Keep Logging Me Out Automatically? (Fix Guide)

If Snapchat keep logging you out every time you open the app — or even randomly during the day — you’re definitely not alone. This is one of the most searched Snapchat problems in 2026, and the good news is that it’s almost always fixable.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through every possible reason this happens and exactly how to stop it. No technical jargon, no fluff — just real fixes that actually work.

Read: How to Appeal TikTok Content Violation

First, Why Does Snapchat Keep Logging Me Out?

Before jumping to fixes, it helps to understand what’s actually going on behind the scenes. Snapchat doesn’t log you out for no reason. Something is triggering it — and once you identify the cause, the solution becomes obvious.

Here are the most common culprits in 2026:

1. Snapchat Suspects Suspicious Activity on Your Account

This is the number one reason Snapchat auto-logs users out. If Snapchat’s security system detects anything unusual — like a login from a new device, a different country, or an unfamiliar IP address — it will boot you out automatically as a protective measure.

How to check: Go to your email linked to Snapchat. You may have received a security alert message from Snapchat telling you a new login was detected.

What to do:

Log back in and change your password immediately
Enable two-factor authentication (2FA) from Settings → Two-Factor Authentication
Review which devices are logged into your account under Settings → Devices

This step alone fixes the issue for a large number of users.

2. You’re Using a Third-Party Snapchat App

This one is huge. Apps like Phantom Snapchat, SnapBox, Sneakaboo, or any unofficial Snapchat-modified app violate Snapchat’s Terms of Service. When Snapchat detects these apps interacting with your account, it forces a logout — and in some cases, it can even lock your account temporarily.

Fix: Uninstall any third-party Snapchat-related app immediately. Go to the official App Store (iOS) or Google Play Store (Android) and download the official Snapchat app only.

After doing this, log back in and you should stop getting randomly kicked out.

3. Outdated Version of the Snapchat App

Snapchat updates its app frequently — sometimes every two to three weeks. Running an old version can cause all sorts of weird behavior, including automatic logouts. Older versions sometimes have session-handling bugs that the latest update fixes.

Fix:

On iPhone: Open the App Store → Tap your profile → Scroll to Snapchat → Tap Update
On Android: Open Google Play Store → Tap your profile → Manage Apps → Find Snapchat → Update

After updating, restart your phone and log back in.

4. Corrupted App Cache

Your Snapchat app stores temporary data called “cache” to help the app load faster. Over time, this cache can get corrupted — especially if the app crashed at some point or if your storage is nearly full. A corrupted cache can cause unstable sessions and lead to random logouts.

Fix (Android):

Go to Settings → Apps → Snapchat → Storage → Clear Cache
Do not tap “Clear Data” unless you want to completely reset the app

Fix (iPhone):

iOS doesn’t have a built-in cache cleaner, so you’ll need to offload the app
Go to Settings → General → iPhone Storage → Snapchat → Offload App
Then reinstall Snapchat from the App Store

5. Your Phone’s Battery Optimization Is Killing Snapchat

This one surprises a lot of people. Many Android phones in 2026 (especially Samsung, Xiaomi, OnePlus, and Realme) have aggressive battery-saving modes that automatically kill background apps — including Snapchat. When Snapchat gets killed in the background, it loses your session and logs you out.

Fix (Android):

Go to Settings → Battery → Battery Optimization (or App Battery Management)
Find Snapchat and set it to “Don’t Optimize” or “Unrestricted”

Fix (Samsung specifically):

Go to Settings → Device Care → Battery → Background Usage Limits
Make sure Snapchat is NOT added to the list of restricted apps

6. Weak or Unstable Internet Connection

Snapchat relies on a live internet connection to maintain your session. If your Wi-Fi keeps dropping or you’re switching between mobile data and Wi-Fi frequently, Snapchat can interpret the session as expired and force you to log back in.

Fix:

Switch from Wi-Fi to mobile data (or vice versa) and see if the problem continues
Restart your router if you’re on home Wi-Fi
Toggle Airplane Mode on and off to reset your connection

7. VPN Interference

Using a VPN while running Snapchat is a well-known cause of random logouts. When your VPN changes servers or disconnects momentarily, your IP address changes. Snapchat sees this as a suspicious login from a different location and logs you out immediately.

Fix: Turn off your VPN before using Snapchat. If you need a VPN for other reasons, consider whitelisting Snapchat from your VPN’s app settings so it bypasses the tunnel.

8. Account Temporarily Flagged or Limited

If you’ve been sending a lot of snaps in a short time, adding many friends rapidly, or your account was recently reported by other users, Snapchat may flag your account. This doesn’t mean you’re banned — it just means their system is monitoring your activity, and part of that process includes forcing a logout.

Fix: Log back in normally and avoid unusual activity for a day or two. If the logouts continue, contact Snapchat Support at support.snapchat.com and explain the situation. Usually they resolve it within 24–48 hours.

9. iOS or Android System Update Conflict

When your phone’s operating system gets updated, it can sometimes conflict with how certain apps manage sessions. This is especially true right after a major iOS or Android update drops. Snapchat session tokens can get invalidated during system updates.

Fix:

Check if Snapchat has released a compatibility update after the latest OS update
If not, try reinstalling Snapchat completely (log out first, uninstall, then reinstall)

10. Multiple Devices Logged In

Snapchat allows you to stay logged into multiple devices, but if you logged in somewhere else — say an old phone, a tablet, or a friend’s device — and that session is active, it can sometimes conflict with your current session and cause one of them to get kicked.

Fix: Go to Snapchat Settings → My Account → Devices. Here you’ll see all active sessions. Log out of any device you don’t recognize or no longer use.

Step-by-Step: The Complete Fix Checklist

If you want to run through everything in order, here’s your quick reference:

Step 1 — Update Snapchat to the latest version

Step 2 — Clear the app cache (Android) or offload and reinstall (iPhone)

Step 3 — Turn off any VPN you’re using

Step 4 — Check battery optimization settings and exclude Snapchat

Step 5 — Go to Snapchat Settings → Devices and remove old sessions

Step 6 — Change your Snapchat password and turn on 2FA

Step 7 — Uninstall any third-party Snapchat app if you have one

Step 8 — Restart your phone and log back in

For most users, this checklist resolves the issue completely.

When Should You Contact Snapchat Support?

If you’ve tried everything above and Snapchat is still logging you out, it’s time to reach out to Snapchat directly. This is especially important if:

Your account is getting locked after logging back in
You’re seeing a message that says “Your account has been temporarily locked”
You believe someone else may have access to your account

Visit support.snapchat.com and submit a ticket under “My Account & Security.” Be specific about what’s happening — mention how often it logs you out, what device you’re on, and what version of Snapchat you’re using. Their support team typically responds within 1–3 business days.

How to Prevent This From Happening Again

Once you’ve fixed the issue, here are a few habits that will keep your Snapchat session stable going forward:

Use only the official Snapchat app. This is non-negotiable. No matter how cool a third-party app sounds, it’s not worth risking your account.

Keep 2FA turned on at all times. Two-factor authentication not only protects your account but also gives Snapchat more confidence that you are who you say you are — which means fewer forced logouts.

Keep the app updated. Don’t ignore those update prompts. Each update often includes session stability fixes you won’t even know about until you need them.

Don’t log into Snapchat on devices you don’t own. If you’ve logged in on a friend’s phone, always remember to log out before handing it back.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Does Snapchat automatically log you out after a period of inactivity?

Not normally. Snapchat is designed to keep you logged in unless something triggers a logout — like a security flag, a password change, or an app conflict. Pure inactivity alone shouldn’t log you out.

Q: Will clearing the cache delete my Snaps or memories?

No. Clearing the cache only removes temporary files. Your Memories, saved Snaps, and account data are stored on Snapchat’s servers and won’t be affected.

Q: My Snapchat logged me out and now says my account is locked — what do I do?

This usually means Snapchat’s system flagged your account for suspicious activity. Go to support.snapchat.com and use the “Unlock My Account” option. In most cases, you’ll be unlocked within a few hours after verifying your identity.

Q: Is it safe to use Snapchat on public Wi-Fi?

It’s not ideal. Public Wi-Fi networks are less secure, and Snapchat may flag the unusual IP address and log you out. If you must use public Wi-Fi, consider turning on a trusted VPN — but remember to exclude Snapchat from the VPN tunnel to avoid the issues mentioned earlier.

Final Thoughts

Getting logged out of Snapchat automatically is frustrating, especially if it keeps happening. But as you’ve seen, there’s almost always a clear reason behind it — whether it’s a security trigger, an outdated app, a battery optimization setting, or a VPN conflict.

Work through the checklist in this guide, and there’s a very high chance you’ll have the problem sorted in under 10 minutes. And if you don’t, Snapchat Support is genuinely helpful for account-specific issues.

If this guide helped you, consider bookmarking it — this is a problem that tends to pop up again after major Snapchat or phone OS updates.

Got a question or a fix that worked for you that I didn’t mention? Drop it in the comments below — it might help someone else in the same situation.

MacBook Stuck on Loading Screen — How to Fix [All Models]

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Crazyerror

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February 20, 2026

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Quick Answer: If your MacBook is stuck on the Apple logo with a loading bar, first try a force restart by holding the power button for 10 seconds. If that doesn’t work, boot into Safe Mode, reset NVRAM/PRAM, run Disk Utility First Aid in Recovery Mode, or reinstall macOS. Most cases are fixable without losing data.

You turn on your MacBook expecting it to boot up like normal, but instead, it gets stuck on the Apple logo with that loading bar frozen in place. Or maybe the bar moves slowly for hours and never finishes. Or worse — it keeps restarting in an endless loop, never making it past the loading screen.

I get it. This is stressful. Your work files, photos, projects — everything feels trapped inside a machine that won’t cooperate.

The good news? In most cases, this problem is fixable without losing any of your data, and you don’t need to be a tech expert to do it. I’m going to walk you through every method that actually works, step by step, starting with the simplest fixes and moving to more advanced options if needed.

Let’s get your MacBook working again.

Read: How to Fix MacBook Pro USB Ports Not Working?

Why Does MacBook Get Stuck on the Loading Screen?

Before jumping into fixes, it helps to understand what’s actually happening. When your Mac gets stuck on the loading screen, it means the system is trying to boot macOS but something is blocking it from finishing.

Here are the most common causes:

After a macOS update — This is the #1 reason. Updates sometimes fail to install correctly, leaving your Mac in a half-updated state. macOS Sonoma, Sequoia, and Ventura updates have all caused boot loops for users.

Corrupted system files — If critical macOS files get damaged (from a power outage, forced shutdown, or disk errors), your Mac can’t complete the boot sequence.

Full storage drive — If your startup disk has zero free space, macOS can’t create the temporary files it needs to boot.

Faulty peripherals — A malfunctioning USB drive, external hard drive, or even a wireless mouse can sometimes prevent boot.

Bad software or kernel extensions — Third-party apps, especially ones that modify system-level settings (like antivirus software, VPNs, or customization tools), can cause boot failures.

Hardware issues — Less common, but failing RAM, a dying hard drive, or display/logic board problems can cause boot loops.

NVRAM/SMC issues — These store critical settings like startup disk selection. If they’re corrupted, your Mac might not know where to boot from.

Now that you know what might be causing it, let’s fix it.

Fix 1: Wait It Out (Seriously)

I know this sounds ridiculous, but hear me out.

If your Mac just finished installing a major macOS update (Sonoma, Sequoia, etc.), the loading screen can legitimately take 30 minutes to 2 hours to complete — especially on older MacBooks or if you have a lot of files.

Apple even recommends starting macOS updates in the evening so they can run overnight if needed.

How to know if you should wait:

The loading bar is moving, even if it’s incredibly slow
Your Mac recently completed an update before shutting down
The loading bar hasn’t been stuck in the exact same spot for more than 30 minutes

When to stop waiting:

The loading bar hasn’t moved at all in 1+ hours
Your Mac keeps restarting on its own
The screen goes black and comes back to the Apple logo repeatedly

If waiting doesn’t work, move to the next fix.

Fix 2: Force Restart Your MacBook (The First Thing to Try)

This is the easiest fix and works more often than you’d think. A simple force restart can break the boot loop and let your Mac start normally.

For all MacBook models:

Step 1: Press and hold the Power button for about 10 seconds until your MacBook completely shuts down. The screen will go black and stay black.

Step 2: Wait 10–15 seconds.

Step 3: Press the Power button again to turn your MacBook back on.

For MacBooks with Touch ID: The Touch ID button IS the power button — press and hold it.

If your Mac boots normally, great! Problem solved. If it gets stuck on the loading screen again, keep reading.

Fix 3: Disconnect All External Devices

Faulty or incompatible peripherals can prevent your Mac from booting. I’ve seen this happen with everything from USB hubs to wireless mice to external SSDs.

Step 1: Force shut down your MacBook (hold power button for 10 seconds).

Step 2: Unplug or disconnect EVERYTHING:

External monitors
USB drives and hard drives
SD cards
Printers
Keyboards and mice (except Apple’s built-in keyboard and trackpad)
Bluetooth devices (if you can, turn off Bluetooth)
Docking stations or hubs
Charging cables (unplug for a moment, then plug back in)

Step 3: Turn your MacBook back on.

If it boots successfully without the peripherals, you know one of them was causing the problem. Reconnect them one at a time to figure out which one is the culprit.

Fix 4: Boot Into Safe Mode

Safe Mode is a diagnostic mode that loads only the essential macOS components and runs some automatic repairs. It’s one of the most effective ways to fix boot issues caused by software problems.

For MacBooks with Apple Silicon (M1, M2, M3, M4)

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook completely.

Step 2: Press and hold the Power button until you see “Loading startup options” on the screen.

Step 3: Select your startup disk (usually Macintosh HD).

Step 4: Press and hold the Shift key, then click “Continue in Safe Mode”.

Step 5: Your Mac will boot into Safe Mode. You’ll see “Safe Boot” in red text in the upper-right corner of the login screen.

Step 6: Log in and let your Mac sit for a few minutes. Safe Mode runs automatic disk repairs in the background.

Step 7: Restart your Mac normally (don’t hold Shift this time) and see if it boots.

For Intel MacBooks

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Press the Power button, then immediately press and hold the Shift key.

Step 3: Keep holding Shift until you see the login screen with “Safe Boot” in the corner.

Step 4: Log in, wait a few minutes, then restart normally.

What Safe Mode actually does:

Verifies and repairs your startup disk
Deletes system cache files that might be corrupted
Loads only essential kernel extensions
Prevents startup items and login items from loading

If your Mac boots in Safe Mode but not in normal mode, the problem is likely caused by third-party software. Check what apps you installed recently and uninstall them.

Fix 5: Reset NVRAM/PRAM

NVRAM (or PRAM on older Macs) stores settings like startup disk selection, screen resolution, and recent kernel panic info. Resetting it can fix boot problems.

For Apple Silicon Macs (M1, M2, M3, M4)

Good news — you don’t need to do anything. Apple Silicon Macs automatically reset NVRAM when they detect boot problems. It happens in the background.

For Intel MacBooks

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Turn it on and immediately press and hold these four keys together:

Command + Option + P + R

Step 3: Keep holding all four keys for about 20 seconds. Your Mac might restart during this time — that’s normal. Keep holding until you hear the startup chime twice (if your Mac has a chime) or the Apple logo appears and disappears twice.

Step 4: Release the keys and let your Mac boot normally.

After resetting NVRAM, you might need to reconfigure some settings like display resolution or startup disk selection.

Fix 6: Reset SMC (Intel MacBooks with T2 Chip Only)

The SMC (System Management Controller) manages hardware functions like power, battery, fans, and sensors. Resetting it can fix boot-related hardware issues.

Note: Apple Silicon Macs (M1, M2, M3, M4) do NOT have an SMC, so skip this step if you have an M-series Mac.

For MacBooks with T2 Chip (2018–2020 MacBook Air, MacBook Pro)

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Press and hold these three keys on the left side of the keyboard:

Shift + Control + Option

Step 3: While holding those three keys, press and hold the Power button as well.

Step 4: Hold all four keys for 10 seconds, then release everything.

Step 5: Wait a few seconds, then press the Power button to turn your MacBook back on.

For Older Intel MacBooks (Non-Removable Battery)

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Unplug the power adapter (if connected).

Step 3: Press and hold the Power button for 10 seconds, then release.

Step 4: Plug the power adapter back in.

Step 5: Press the Power button to turn your Mac on.

Fix 7: Run Disk Utility First Aid in Recovery Mode

If your startup disk has errors or corruption, Disk Utility’s First Aid can detect and repair them. This is one of the most effective fixes for boot issues.

For Apple Silicon Macs (M1, M2, M3, M4)

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Press and hold the Power button until you see “Loading startup options.”

Step 3: Click Options, then click Continue.

Step 4: Select your user account and enter your password.

Step 5: In the macOS Utilities window, select Disk Utility, then click Continue.

Step 6: In the sidebar, select your startup disk (usually Macintosh HD).

Step 7: Click First Aid at the top, then click Run.

Step 8: Wait for First Aid to complete. If it finds and fixes errors, restart your Mac and see if it boots normally.

For Intel MacBooks

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Turn it on and immediately press and hold Command + R until you see the Apple logo or a spinning globe.

Step 3: Select Disk Utility → Continue.

Step 4: Select your startup disk → Click First Aid → Run.

Step 5: After First Aid finishes, restart your Mac.

What if First Aid says it can’t repair the disk? This usually means your hard drive is failing and needs to be replaced. Back up your data immediately if possible (you can do this from Recovery Mode using Target Disk Mode or external recovery tools).

Fix 8: Reinstall macOS (Keeps Your Files)

If nothing else has worked, reinstalling macOS usually fixes the problem. The good news is that reinstalling macOS does NOT delete your files — it only replaces the operating system files.

Important: This process requires an internet connection.

For Apple Silicon Macs (M1, M2, M3, M4)

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Press and hold the Power button until “Loading startup options” appears.

Step 3: Click Options, then Continue.

Step 4: Enter your password when prompted.

Step 5: In macOS Utilities, select Reinstall macOS [version name], then click Continue.

Step 6: Follow the on-screen instructions. Select your startup disk when asked (usually Macintosh HD).

Step 7: Wait for the installation to complete. This can take 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on your internet speed.

Step 8: Your Mac will restart automatically when done.

For Intel MacBooks

Step 1: Shut down your MacBook.

Step 2: Turn it on and immediately press and hold Command + R.

Step 3: Release the keys when you see the Apple logo or spinning globe.

Step 4: In macOS Utilities, select Reinstall macOS, then Continue.

Step 5: Follow the prompts to complete the installation.

Will this delete my files? No, as long as you don’t erase your disk first. Reinstalling macOS only replaces system files.

Fix 9: Erase and Reinstall macOS (Last Resort)

If reinstalling macOS over your existing system didn’t work, you’ll need to erase your startup disk and do a clean install. This WILL delete all your files, so only do this if you have a backup or if you’ve already recovered your important data.

Step 1: Boot into Recovery Mode (instructions above in Fix 8).

Step 2: Select Disk Utility, then Continue.

Step 3: Select your startup disk in the sidebar.

Step 4: Click Erase at the top.

Step 5: Choose these settings:

Format: APFS
Scheme: GUID Partition Map

Step 6: Click Erase. Wait for it to finish.

Step 7: Quit Disk Utility (Command + Q).

Step 8: Select Reinstall macOS and follow the installation process.

After macOS is installed, you can restore your files from Time Machine or another backup.

Fix 10: Revive or Restore Firmware (Apple Silicon Macs with Boot Loops)

If your M1, M2, M3, or M4 MacBook is completely bricked and won’t even enter Recovery Mode, you can revive or restore the firmware using another Mac and Apple Configurator.

What you’ll need:

Another Mac (any Mac running macOS 12.0.1 or later)
A USB-C to USB-C cable (Thunderbolt cable works too)

Step 1: On the working Mac, download Apple Configurator from the Mac App Store.

Step 2: Shut down the MacBook that won’t boot.

Step 3: Connect both Macs using a USB-C cable.

Step 4: Put the bricked MacBook into DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode:

For MacBook Air/Pro: Press and hold the Power button for 10 seconds, then release. The screen stays black.
Immediately press and hold the right Shift + left Option + left Control keys for 10 seconds.
Without releasing those keys, press and hold the Power button as well for another 10 seconds, then release everything.

Step 5: On the working Mac, open Apple Configurator. Your bricked MacBook should appear as a device in “DFU Mode.”

Step 6: Click Revive (this keeps your data) or Restore (this erases everything).

Step 7: Follow the on-screen instructions. The process takes 15–30 minutes.

This has saved countless MacBooks that seemed completely dead.

When to Take Your MacBook to Apple

If you’ve tried all of the above and your MacBook is still stuck on the loading screen, it’s likely a hardware issue. Here are signs you need professional help:

Your Mac makes clicking, beeping, or grinding noises when booting
Recovery Mode won’t load at all
Disk Utility can’t detect your startup disk
First Aid reports that your disk is failing
Your MacBook shuts off randomly during boot
The screen flickers or shows weird graphical glitches

These symptoms usually point to a failing hard drive, bad RAM, logic board issues, or display problems — all of which need hands-on repair.

Contact Apple Support: https://support.apple.com

Make a Genius Bar appointment: Go to an Apple Store and have them run hardware diagnostics.

How to Prevent This From Happening Again

Once you get your MacBook working, here’s how to avoid future boot problems:

Keep at least 15–20GB of free storage — A full disk causes all kinds of problems, including boot failures. Go to Apple Menu → About This Mac → Storage and free up space regularly.

Don’t force shut down your Mac — Unless it’s completely frozen, always shut down properly through the Apple menu. Force shutdowns can corrupt system files.

Update macOS carefully — Before updating, back up your Mac with Time Machine. If you hear about widespread issues with a new update, wait a week or two before installing it.

Uninstall apps properly — Don’t just drag apps to the Trash. Use an uninstaller like AppCleaner to remove all associated files, especially for system-level apps like antivirus software.

Run regular backups — Use Time Machine or a cloud backup service. If your Mac ever fails completely, you won’t lose your files.

Check for disk errors periodically — Run Disk Utility First Aid every few months to catch problems early.

Avoid third-party kernel extensions — Apps that install kernel extensions (kexts) can cause boot loops. Only install them from trusted developers.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should I wait before assuming my Mac is stuck?

For normal boots: 5 minutes max. For macOS updates: up to 2 hours. If the loading bar hasn’t moved at all in 30+ minutes, it’s genuinely stuck.

Will I lose my files if I reinstall macOS?

No, reinstalling macOS (not erasing first) keeps all your files. It only replaces system files. But always back up first just in case.

Can I recover data from a MacBook stuck on the loading screen?

Yes. Boot into Recovery Mode, open Disk Utility, and your startup disk should appear. You can copy files to an external drive from there, or use data recovery software in Recovery Mode.

Why does my MacBook boot in Safe Mode but not normal mode?

This means a third-party app or login item is causing the issue. In Safe Mode, check System Settings → General → Login Items and remove anything you don’t recognize. Also uninstall recently added apps.

My MacBook keeps restarting in a loop. What do I do?

Try Safe Mode first (Fix 4). If that doesn’t work, reset NVRAM/PRAM (Fix 5) and run First Aid (Fix 7). Boot loops are often caused by corrupted system files or bad peripherals.

Final Thoughts

Getting stuck on the loading screen is frustrating, but in most cases, it’s fixable. Start with the simple solutions (force restart, disconnect peripherals, Safe Mode) and work your way up to the more advanced fixes only if needed.

The vast majority of boot issues are caused by software problems — corrupted files, bad updates, or misbehaving apps — not hardware failures. That means you can usually fix them yourself without spending a dime.

If you’ve gone through this entire guide and your MacBook still won’t boot, it’s time to contact Apple Support or visit a Genius Bar. At that point, you’ve ruled out all the common software causes, and a technician can diagnose the hardware.

Still stuck on a specific step? Drop your MacBook model and what you’re seeing in the comments and I’ll help troubleshoot.

How to Connect MacBook to TV or External Monitor (Complete Guide)

How to

Crazyerror

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February 17, 2026

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How to Connect MacBook to TV or External Monitor (Complete Guide)

Quick Answer: You can connect MacBook to TV or external monitor using a USB-C/Thunderbolt cable, HDMI adapter, or wirelessly via AirPlay. The right method depends on your MacBook model and the ports available on your display.

So you just got a new MacBook — or maybe you’ve had one for a while — and you’re trying to figure out how to get it connected to your big TV or a second monitor. Maybe you want a larger screen for working from home, binge-watching Netflix, or editing photos and videos without squinting at a 13-inch display.

Good news: connecting your MacBook to an external screen is totally doable, even if you’ve never done it before. The tricky part is knowing which cable or method to use — because Apple has changed ports multiple times over the years, and it’s easy to get confused.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through every method, step by step, so you can get your MacBook connected in under 10 minutes.

Read: How to Stop Screen Recording on MacBook Air

What You Need to Know First: MacBook Port Types

Before buying any cables or adapters, you need to know what ports your MacBook actually has. Here’s a quick breakdown:

Modern MacBooks (2019 and newer) — These have Thunderbolt 3 or Thunderbolt 4 ports, which look exactly like USB-C. Some models (like the 14″ and 16″ MacBook Pro) also have an HDMI port built in.

Older MacBooks (2012–2018) — These typically have USB-A ports, Thunderbolt 2 (looks like a Mini DisplayPort), and some have HDMI built in.

MacBook Air M1, M2, M3, M4 — These have two Thunderbolt/USB-C ports only. No HDMI, no SD card, no extras.

MacBook Pro 14″ and 16″ (M1 Pro, M2 Pro, M3 Pro, M4 Pro and above) — These have a dedicated HDMI 2.0/2.1 port plus Thunderbolt 4 ports.

To check your specific model: click the Apple menu → About This Mac → More Info, and you’ll see your exact model name and year.

Method 1: Connect MacBook to TV or Monitor Using USB-C / Thunderbolt Cable (Best Quality)

This is the cleanest, most reliable method if your TV or monitor has a USB-C or Thunderbolt port.

What you need: A USB-C to USB-C cable, or a Thunderbolt 4 cable if your monitor supports it.

Step 1: Plug one end of the USB-C cable into your MacBook.

Step 2: Plug the other end into the USB-C or Thunderbolt port on your TV or monitor.

Step 3: Your Mac should automatically detect the display within a few seconds.

Step 4: If nothing happens, go to System Settings → Displays and click Detect Displays in the bottom right corner.

That’s genuinely it. If your display supports it, you’ll get up to 4K resolution and crystal-clear picture quality through a single cable.

Pro tip: Not all USB-C cables carry video. Look for cables labeled “Thunderbolt” or “USB-C with DisplayPort Alt Mode” — cheap USB-C charging cables often don’t work for video.

Method 2: Connect MacBook to TV Using HDMI Adapter (Most Common Method)

Most people use this method because almost every TV in the world has at least one HDMI port.

What you need: A USB-C to HDMI adapter, or a USB-C to HDMI cable.

Option A: If Your MacBook Has a Built-In HDMI Port

Some MacBook Pro models already have an HDMI port built in. Check the side of your laptop — if you see an HDMI port, you’re already set.

Step 1: Grab a standard HDMI cable.

Step 2: Plug one end into your MacBook’s HDMI port.

Step 3: Plug the other end into an available HDMI port on your TV.

Step 4: On your TV, press Source or Input on the remote and select the correct HDMI input (usually labeled HDMI 1, HDMI 2, etc.).

Step 5: Your Mac screen should appear on the TV automatically.

Option B: If Your MacBook Only Has USB-C Ports

This covers MacBook Air M1, M2, M3, M4, and older MacBook Pros.

Step 1: Buy a USB-C to HDMI adapter. You can find reliable ones on Amazon for $10–$25. Look for brands like Anker, Belkin, or Cable Matters — avoid super cheap no-name adapters as they can cause flickering.

Step 2: Plug the adapter into one of your MacBook’s USB-C/Thunderbolt ports.

Step 3: Connect an HDMI cable from the adapter to your TV or monitor.

Step 4: Switch your TV input to the correct HDMI source.

Step 5: Your MacBook screen should appear on the TV. If it doesn’t, go to System Settings → Displays → Detect Displays.

What resolution can you expect? Most USB-C to HDMI adapters support up to 4K at 30Hz or 1080p at 60Hz. If you want 4K at 60Hz, make sure you’re buying an adapter that specifically says “4K@60Hz.”

Method 3: Connect MacBook to TV Wirelessly Using AirPlay (No Cables Needed)

If your TV supports AirPlay 2 — which most smart TVs from 2019 onward do, including Samsung, LG, Sony, and Vizio — you can connect wirelessly without any cables at all.

Compatible TVs for AirPlay: Samsung (2018+), LG (2019+), Sony (2019+), Vizio (2019+), and virtually any Apple TV.

Step 1: Make sure your MacBook and your TV are connected to the same Wi-Fi network. This step trips up a lot of people — if they’re on different networks, AirPlay simply won’t work.

Step 2: On your MacBook, click the Control Center icon in the top-right menu bar (it looks like two sliders).

Step 3: Click Screen Mirroring.

Step 4: You’ll see a list of available AirPlay devices. Click your TV’s name.

Step 5: A 4-digit code may appear on your TV. Type it into the prompt on your Mac.

Step 6: Your MacBook screen is now mirrored on your TV.

To stop AirPlay: Go back to Control Center → Screen Mirroring → click your TV name again to disconnect.

Heads up about wireless quality: AirPlay works great for movies, presentations, and general browsing. But if you’re doing video editing or gaming, a wired connection will always give you better performance and less lag.

Method 4: Use a USB-C Hub or Docking Station (Best for Desk Setups)

If you’re working at a desk and want a permanent setup with multiple monitors, a keyboard, mouse, and charging — all through a single cable — a USB-C hub or docking station is the way to go.

What you need: A USB-C hub with HDMI output (usually $30–$80) or a full Thunderbolt dock ($150–$300 for professional setups).

Step 1: Plug the hub into your MacBook’s Thunderbolt/USB-C port.

Step 2: Connect your HDMI monitor to the hub’s HDMI port.

Step 3: Connect any other peripherals (keyboard, mouse, USB drives, charging cable) to the remaining hub ports.

This is what most people who work from home end up using because it turns your MacBook into a full desktop replacement with just one plug.

Recommended hubs: Anker 7-in-1 Hub, CalDigit TS4 (premium), HyperDrive 6-in-1 Hub. All work seamlessly with MacBooks.

Method 5: Connect MacBook to an Older TV Using VGA or DVI (Older Displays)

Got an older monitor at the office or at home? These often use VGA (blue trapezoid connector) or DVI (white rectangular connector) instead of HDMI.

What you need:

For VGA: A USB-C to VGA adapter
For DVI: A USB-C to DVI adapter

The process is the same as the HDMI adapter method above — plug the adapter into your MacBook’s USB-C port, run the VGA or DVI cable to your monitor, and switch the monitor input to the correct source.

Keep in mind: VGA is an analog signal, so it won’t give you the sharpest picture. If your monitor has an HDMI or DisplayPort input, use those instead.

How to Adjust Display Settings After Connecting

Once your MacBook is connected to an external display, you’ll want to set it up properly. Here’s how:

Open Display Settings: Go to Apple Menu → System Settings → Displays (on macOS Ventura/Sonoma/Sequoia) or System Preferences → Displays (on older macOS).

Mirror vs. Extended Display:

Mirror Display shows the same thing on both screens — great for presentations.
Extended Display gives you a second workspace — great for productivity. Your cursor moves between screens as if you have one giant monitor.

To switch between them, click Arrangement in the Displays settings and check or uncheck “Mirror Displays.”

Changing Resolution: In Displays settings, you can click on your external display and choose a different resolution. Click Scaled to see all available options.

Setting a Different Screen as the Primary Display: In Arrangement view, drag the white menu bar (shown at the top of one screen icon) to the display you want to be your “main” screen.

Common Problems and Quick Fixes

MacBook not detecting the external display:
Go to System Settings → Displays, hold the Option key, and click Detect Displays. Also try unplugging and re-plugging the cable.

Display showing in low resolution:
Some adapters default to a lower resolution. Open Display Settings, click your external display, choose Scaled, and pick the correct resolution.

Screen flickering or going black:
This is almost always a cable or adapter issue. Try a different USB-C port on your MacBook or replace the adapter with a higher-quality one.

AirPlay not showing available devices:
Both your Mac and TV must be on the same Wi-Fi network. Also make sure AirPlay is enabled on your TV — on Samsung TVs, go to Settings → General → Apple AirPlay Settings and turn it on.

External display works but audio still plays from MacBook:
Go to System Settings → Sound → Output and select your TV or monitor from the list to redirect audio.

MacBook gets hot when using external display:
This is normal — running two screens requires more GPU power. Make sure your MacBook has good airflow and isn’t sitting on a soft surface like a bed or couch.

Which Connection Method Should You Use?

Here’s a simple way to decide:

Best picture quality + reliability: USB-C/Thunderbolt direct cable or HDMI
Most convenient for everyday desk use: USB-C hub or docking station
No cables, living room use: AirPlay to a smart TV
Budget-friendly, most TVs: USB-C to HDMI adapter

For most people setting up a home office, I’d recommend picking up a good USB-C hub that has an HDMI port built in. It’s a one-time purchase that solves all your connectivity needs and keeps your desk tidy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I connect two external monitors to a MacBook Air?

Most MacBook Air models (M1, M2) officially support only one external display. However, the M3 MacBook Air supports two external monitors when the lid is closed. The MacBook Pro M2 and above supports multiple displays natively.

Does connecting to a TV drain MacBook battery faster?

Yes, running an external display increases GPU load, which uses more power. If you’re not plugged in, expect noticeably shorter battery life.

Can I use my MacBook in clamshell mode (lid closed) with an external display?

Yes. Connect a power cable, external keyboard, and mouse to your MacBook, close the lid, and your external monitor will become the main display. This is called “clamshell mode” and works great for desk setups.

What’s the maximum resolution I can get on an external display?

MacBook Pro with M-series chips supports up to 8K resolution on external displays via Thunderbolt 4. MacBook Air supports up to 6K. The resolution you actually get also depends on what your display supports.

Why does my 4K monitor look blurry on my MacBook?

This usually happens because the resolution is set incorrectly. Open System Settings → Displays, click your external monitor, choose Scaled, and select the 4K or HiDPI option that matches your monitor’s native resolution.

Can I connect a MacBook to a projector?

Absolutely. A projector with an HDMI input works exactly like a TV or monitor — just use the USB-C to HDMI adapter method described above.

Final Thoughts

Connecting your MacBook to a TV or external monitor is one of the best upgrades you can make to your work or entertainment setup. Once you figure out which cable or adapter you need, the whole process takes less than 5 minutes.

If you’re buying accessories, my top recommendation is to invest in a quality USB-C hub — it future-proofs your setup and means you only need one cable going to your MacBook, no matter how many devices you’re using.

Got stuck at a specific step? Drop your MacBook model and TV/monitor type in the comments and I’ll help you figure out the exact solution.

MacBook Not Charging? 7 Fixes Before You Replace the Charger

Crazyerror

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February 11, 2026

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MacBook Not Charging? 7 Fixes Before You Replace the Charger

There’s a particular kind of panic that sets in when you plug in your MacBook and nothing happens. No charging indicator. No green or amber light on the MagSafe connector. Just a battery percentage slowly creeping toward zero.

I’ve been there. And the first thing I did — like most people — was assume the charger was broken and start shopping for a replacement. That was a mistake. The charger was completely fine.

Read: 7 Mac Security Settings Every MacBook User Should Know

Here’s what I’ve learned after troubleshooting this problem more times than I’d like to admit: a MacBook not charging is almost never immediately about the charger. In the majority of cases, the fix is simpler, faster, and completely free. You just have to know where to look.

Before you spend $80 on a new Apple charger, work through these seven fixes. One of them will almost certainly get your MacBook charging again.

Why Your MacBook Not Charging (The Real Reason)

Most people assume charging problems mean something is physically broken — a faulty cable, a damaged port, or a dead battery. But MacBooks have sophisticated power management systems that actively control whether and how the battery charges. These systems can get confused, stuck, or temporarily misconfigured in ways that have nothing to do with broken hardware.

Understanding this is important because it changes how you approach the problem. You’re not always dealing with something broken. You’re often dealing with something that just needs to be reset, cleared, or adjusted.

With that in mind, here are the seven fixes — ordered from quickest and most likely to work, to more involved.

Fix 1: Check the Basics (Don’t Skip This)

Before anything else, do a quick physical check. This sounds obvious, but it’s the step that actually solves the problem more often than people want to admit.

Check the power outlet first. Plug something else into the same outlet — a phone charger, a lamp, anything. If that also doesn’t work, the outlet is the problem, not your MacBook or charger.

Check the charging brick. If you’re using a MagSafe adapter, look at the small LED on the connector — it should glow amber (charging) or green (fully charged). If there’s no light at all, that’s a useful clue.

Check both ends of your cable. Look closely at the USB-C port on your MacBook and the connector on your charger. Even tiny amounts of lint, dust, or debris can prevent a solid connection. I once spent 20 minutes troubleshooting a charging issue that turned out to be a piece of pocket lint wedged into the USB-C port.

Try a different port. Most MacBooks have two or more USB-C ports. If one port isn’t charging, try another one before assuming the charger is faulty.

Fix 2: Clean Your MacBook’s Charging Port

This fix solves charging problems far more often than it should — because nobody thinks to check it. Over time, lint, dust, and debris pack into the USB-C port until the charger can’t make proper contact. The port might look clean at a glance but still have enough buildup to break the connection.

How to clean it safely:

Power down your MacBook completely
Use a wooden or plastic toothpick — never metal, never anything sharp
Very gently work around the inside of the port in small circular motions
Use a can of compressed air to blow out any loosened debris
Shine a flashlight into the port and check for remaining buildup
Plug your charger back in

A few things to avoid: don’t use metal tools, don’t spray compressed air at full force directly into the port, and don’t use cotton swabs — they leave fibers behind. The toothpick method feels low-tech but it genuinely works.

After cleaning, test with your charger again before moving on to the next fix.

Fix 3: Reset the SMC (This Fixes Most Charging Issues)

The SMC — System Management Controller — is the part of your Mac’s chip that controls battery charging, power management, and the LED indicator on your charger. When the SMC gets into a bad state, it can simply stop telling your battery to charge, even when everything else is working fine.

Resetting the SMC is the single most effective fix for MacBook charging problems. This is what Apple support will walk you through if you call them, and it resolves a majority of cases.

For MacBooks with Apple Silicon (M1, M2, M3, M4 chips — 2020 and later):

There is no separate SMC reset process. The equivalent is a full shutdown and restart:

Go to Apple menu > Shut Down
Wait 30 seconds after the screen goes dark
Press the power button to restart
Plug in your charger and check if it’s charging

For Intel MacBooks with a non-removable battery (most 2017–2020 models):

Shut down your MacBook completely
Press and hold Shift + Control + Option on the left side of the keyboard and the power button simultaneously
Hold all four keys for 10 seconds
Release all keys
Press the power button normally to start up
Plug in your charger and test

For Intel MacBooks with a removable battery (older models, pre-2012):

Shut down completely
Remove the battery
Press and hold the power button for 5 seconds
Reinstall the battery
Power on and test charging

After the SMC reset, give your MacBook a minute or two before testing. The system needs a moment to reinitialize its power management settings.

Fix 4: Check Battery Health and Charging Settings

macOS has a feature called Optimized Battery Charging that deliberately pauses charging to preserve long-term battery health. It learns your charging habits and will sometimes hold the battery at 80% for extended periods — which can feel exactly like the charger isn’t working when it actually is.

This feature is smart and genuinely extends battery lifespan, but it can cause confusion if you don’t know about it.

How to check:

Click the battery icon in your menu bar (or go to System Settings > Battery)
If you see a message like “Charging on hold” or “Optimizing battery charging,” that’s why your percentage isn’t moving
You can click “Charge to Full Now” to override it temporarily

Also check your battery health while you’re here:

Go to Apple menu > System Information
Click Power in the left sidebar
Look at Cycle Count and Condition
If Condition says “Replace Soon” or “Replace Now,” the battery itself is the issue — not the charger

A normal battery cycle count is under 1,000 for most MacBook models. Apple’s full list of maximum cycle counts by model is available at support.apple.com if you want to check yours specifically.

Fix 5: Try a Different Charger or Cable

At this point in the process, it makes sense to test whether the charger itself is the problem — but before you buy a new one, borrow someone else’s.

If a friend, colleague, or family member has a compatible MacBook charger, test yours against theirs. If their charger works on your MacBook and yours doesn’t, you’ve confirmed the charger is faulty. If neither charger works, the problem is with the MacBook’s charging hardware or software — not the charger at all.

A note on third-party chargers: Not all USB-C chargers are created equal. MacBooks require chargers that support USB Power Delivery (USB-PD) and provide enough wattage for your specific model. A 30W charger won’t properly charge a 16-inch MacBook Pro that needs 140W. Using an underpowered charger can result in the battery draining even while “plugged in,” or very slow charging that looks like it isn’t working.

If you’re using a third-party charger, check the wattage rating and compare it to Apple’s recommended wattage for your model.

Fix 6: Update macOS

This one gets overlooked because it doesn’t feel like it should be related to charging. But Apple regularly releases updates that include fixes for power management bugs — and a software bug in macOS can genuinely prevent your MacBook from charging correctly.

If your MacBook is running an older version of macOS and started having charging issues after a recent update, this is especially relevant.

How to check for and install updates:

Go to Apple menu > System Settings > General > Software Update
If an update is available, install it
After the update completes and your Mac restarts, test charging again

One thing to be aware of: during a major macOS update, your Mac may temporarily show no charging activity while the update installs. This is normal. Give it time to complete before assuming the charging is broken.

Fix 7: Run Apple Diagnostics

If none of the above fixes have worked, it’s time to let Apple’s own diagnostic tool investigate. Apple Diagnostics checks your hardware — including battery and charging components — and will tell you if there’s a hardware failure that needs professional attention.

How to run Apple Diagnostics:

On Apple Silicon Macs (M1 and later):

Shut down your MacBook
Press and hold the power button until “Loading startup options” appears
Press Command + D to start diagnostics
Wait for the scan to complete — it takes 2-5 minutes

On Intel Macs:

Shut down your MacBook
Press the power button, then immediately hold D on your keyboard
Keep holding D until the diagnostics screen appears
Wait for the scan to complete

After running, Apple Diagnostics will show a reference code if it detects a problem. Write down any reference codes — you’ll need them if you contact Apple Support or visit an Apple Store.

Common battery-related codes include PPT001, PPT002, PPM003, PPM004 — if you see any of these, your battery or charging hardware needs professional attention.

When to Actually Replace the Charger

After working through all seven fixes, here’s how to know whether the charger really is the problem:

Replace the charger if:

A different charger works perfectly on your MacBook
Your charger shows visible physical damage — fraying, kinks, burn marks, or a bent connector
Apple Diagnostics returns a clean result but the issue persists with your specific charger
The MagSafe LED never lights up even after testing on multiple power outlets

Don’t replace the charger if:

A different charger also fails to charge your MacBook
Apple Diagnostics shows a hardware error code
Your battery health shows “Replace Soon” or “Replace Now”
The issue only happens with Optimized Battery Charging active

If a different charger also fails on your MacBook, spending money on yet another charger won’t fix anything. At that point the problem is with your MacBook’s charging hardware — the charging port, the charging board, or the battery itself — and you need professional diagnosis.

Should You Go to Apple or a Third-Party Repair Shop?

If your MacBook is under warranty or covered by AppleCare+, go straight to Apple. The diagnosis and repair will be covered, and Apple technicians have proprietary diagnostic tools that go deeper than anything available outside Apple.

If you’re out of warranty, you have a choice. Apple’s out-of-warranty battery replacements cost $129-$249 depending on your model. Third-party repair shops typically charge less but vary significantly in quality. If you go third-party, look for shops that use genuine Apple parts and have certified technicians — a cheap battery replacement that damages your logic board ends up costing far more than Apple’s original price.

One option many people don’t know about: Apple’s Self Service Repair program now allows you to repair some MacBook models yourself using genuine Apple parts and official repair guides. It’s not for everyone, but if you’re technically inclined and your model is supported, it’s worth looking into at apple.com/self-service-repair.

A Note on MacBook Charging Habits That Cause Long-Term Problems

While you have your MacBook’s battery health top of mind, here are a few habits that genuinely protect your battery over time:

Don’t drain to 0% regularly. Lithium batteries don’t like being fully depleted. Try to charge before you hit 20%.

Don’t leave it at 100% plugged in for weeks. Modern MacBooks manage this better than older models, but long-term storage at 100% still stresses the battery. Optimized Battery Charging helps with this automatically.

Use the right wattage charger. Consistently using an underpowered charger can degrade battery health faster than normal. Stick to Apple’s recommended wattage for your specific model.

Don’t charge in extreme temperatures. Apple recommends keeping your MacBook between 50° and 95°F (10° to 35°C) during use and charging. Charging in a hot car, on a bed that traps heat, or in the cold can accelerate battery degradation.

Conclusion

A MacBook not charging is almost never the disaster it feels like in the moment. In the vast majority of cases, it’s a dirty port, a stuck SMC, an Optimized Charging hold, or a minor software issue — all of which are free to fix and take less than 10 minutes.

Work through the seven fixes in this guide before assuming anything is broken. Start with the basics (clean port, different outlet, different port), move to the SMC reset (which fixes most cases), check your battery health and charging settings, and run Apple Diagnostics if you’re still stuck.

Only once you’ve confirmed that a different charger works on your MacBook — and yours doesn’t — is it time to actually replace the charger. Everything before that is a guess.

Your MacBook and your charger are probably both fine. You just need to tell them to start talking again.

How Mac Users Actually Work With PDFs (And Why It Still Feels Messy)

How to

Crazyerror

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February 2, 2026

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How Mac Users Actually Work With PDFs (And Why It Still Feels Messy)

PDFs were never designed to be flexible.

Originally, they were meant to be final documents — something you read, maybe print, and then move on from. But modern work doesn’t stop at “final.”

Today, Mac users regularly need to:

Edit text inside PDFs
Fill out and correct forms
Combine multiple documents
Convert PDFs back into editable formats
Work with scanned paperwork

And this is where things start to feel messy.

Not because macOS is broken, but because PDFs now sit in an awkward middle ground — somewhere between a finished document and an active working file.

Read: How to Clean and Optimize Mac the Right Way (Without Breaking Anything)

How Mac Users Really End Up Working With PDFs

In real-world use, PDFs appear everywhere:

Office documents
Contracts and agreements
Bank statements and government forms
Scanned paperwork
Files shared by clients

On a Mac, the workflow usually starts simple:

Open the PDF
Read it
Maybe sign or annotate it

For these basic tasks, macOS works surprisingly well.

The trouble begins when a PDF isn’t just something to view — but something you need to work with. That’s when many users start improvising:

Uploading files to random online tools
Copying and pasting text between apps
Converting files back and forth
Installing multiple PDF utilities that overlap in purpose

Over time, managing the workflow becomes harder than the work itself.

What macOS Preview Does Well (And Why It’s Underrated)

Before jumping into third-party tools, this needs to be said clearly:

macOS Preview is excellent — within its intended role.

Preview works very well for:

Quickly opening and viewing PDFs
Highlighting and marking up documents
Adding comments and notes
Signing documents digitally
Rearranging or deleting pages

For many Mac users, this is more than enough.

If your interaction with PDFs is mostly reading, signing, or light annotation, Preview isn’t a compromise — it’s the right tool.

Frustration usually comes from expecting Preview to do things it was never designed to do.

Where Preview Starts to Feel Limiting

Preview’s limitations aren’t bugs — they’re boundaries.

You’ll typically hit friction when you need to:

Edit existing text inside a PDF
Fill forms that aren’t interactive
Convert PDFs into Word or other formats
Work with scanned documents
Use OCR reliably

At this point, many users assume something is wrong with macOS.

In reality, they’ve crossed from viewing into editing — and those are two very different problems.

When a Dedicated PDF Tool Actually Makes Sense

This is where most people miss the real decision.

The question isn’t:
“What’s the best PDF app for Mac?”

A better question is:
“How often do I actually work with PDFs?”

If PDFs are occasional:

Preview is enough
Extra tools add complexity, not value

If PDFs are frequent:

Contracts
Forms
Client documents
Scans
Conversions

Relying on Preview alone often creates unnecessary friction.

This is where a dedicated PDF tool makes sense — not because it’s “better,” but because it’s built specifically for that kind of work.

A Workflow-Friendly Option: UPDF

For users who work with PDFs regularly, one workflow-friendly option is UPDF
👉 https://updf.com

UPDF doesn’t try to replace macOS tools. Instead, it focuses on areas where Preview typically struggles, such as:

Editing existing text inside PDFs
Handling annotations and comments more deeply
Converting PDFs without breaking formatting
Working with scanned documents

It’s not something every Mac user needs — and it shouldn’t be.

But for people whose daily work involves PDFs beyond simple viewing, a purpose-built tool can significantly reduce friction.

The key is intentional use, not installing more software than necessary.

Common PDF Workflow Mistakes to Avoid

Many PDF frustrations come from the workflow itself, not the files.

Some common mistakes include:

Uploading sensitive documents to unknown online tools
Installing multiple overlapping PDF apps
Constantly converting files back and forth
Forcing one tool to handle every task

A simpler setup — using the right tool only when needed — is usually far more effective.

How to Choose the Right PDF Setup for Your Work

A simple framework helps here.

Ask yourself:

Do I mostly view PDFs, or edit them?
How often do I need to change existing content?
Do scanned documents matter in my work?
Do I regularly convert PDFs into other formats?

If your answers lean toward viewing and signing, Preview is likely enough.

If editing, converting, and scanning are part of your regular workflow, a dedicated tool becomes less about features — and more about efficiency.

Final Thoughts: Simpler Workflows Beat More Tools

PDFs were never meant to be flexible, but modern work demands flexibility anyway.

The solution isn’t installing more apps — it’s understanding the problem you’re actually trying to solve.

Use built-in tools where they work well.
Add specialized tools only when your workflow truly requires them.

When your tools match how you actually work, PDFs stop feeling messy — and start feeling simple again.

Stop Deleting These Files: What You Should Never Remove on macOS

Crazyerror

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January 21, 2026

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Stop Deleting These Files: What You Should Never Remove on macOS

Many Mac users believe they are improving performance by deleting random files, clearing folders, or following aggressive “Mac cleanup” advice found online. Unfortunately, most of this advice is outdated—and on modern versions of macOS, it can do more harm than good.

If you’ve recently switched from a Windows PC to a Mac, this confusion becomes even more common. macOS works very differently. What looks like clutter is often part of how the system manages performance, stability, and memory behind the scenes.

Read: How to Stop Screen Recording on MacBook Air

In this guide, you’ll learn which files you should never delete on your Mac, why macOS creates them, and how to clean your Mac safely without breaking anything.

Why macOS Looks Messy (But Isn’t)

macOS automatically creates a large number of background files. This doesn’t mean your Mac is disorganized or poorly optimized. Quite the opposite.

These files help macOS:

Load apps faster
Manage memory efficiently
Improve system stability
Reduce crashes and errors
Maintain security and permissions

The real problems start when users delete files they don’t fully understand—often after watching aggressive Mac cleanup videos or using third-party cleaner apps.

macOS Is Not Windows: A Critical Difference

On Windows, unused files often truly are unnecessary. On macOS, unused does not mean unimportant.

macOS uses temporary performance shortcuts, background resources, and system-managed files to keep everything running smoothly. Deleting these files manually interferes with how the system is designed to work.

If you approach Mac cleanup with a Windows mindset, you’re likely to cause slowdowns, bugs, or strange behavior.

Why You Should Never Manually Delete Cache Files

Caches are one of the most misunderstood parts of macOS.

What Caches Actually Do

Cache files store temporary data so apps and macOS can:

Launch faster
Load files quicker
Reduce repeated processing

What Happens When You Delete Them

When you manually clear caches, one of two things happens:

macOS immediately rebuilds them, causing extra CPU usage and battery drain
Apps slow down, because they must recreate everything from scratch

Contrary to popular belief, deleting caches does not make your Mac faster. macOS automatically clears cache files when they are no longer needed.

Bottom line: Caches are a performance feature, not clutter.

System-Managed Files: Don’t Touch Them

macOS creates many system-managed files in the background. These files are essential for:

Stability
Security
Predictable app behavior

Deleting them does not free meaningful storage. In most cases, macOS simply regenerates them, which:

Uses more CPU
Drains battery
Resets app permissions

After deleting these files, apps may suddenly:

Ask for permissions again
Lose access to files
Behave unpredictably

If macOS created a file automatically, it exists for a reason.

Log Files and “Other Storage” Explained

Log Files

Log files help macOS and apps troubleshoot issues automatically. They:

Rotate on their own
Clean themselves over time
Rarely consume excessive space

Deleting them manually removes valuable diagnostic data without providing real benefits.

“Other Storage”

“Other” is not a folder you can empty. It’s a category that includes:

System data
App support files
Background resources

Trying to manually clean “Other Storage” almost always causes more problems than it solves.

Application Support Files: A Common Mistake

Application Support files store:

App preferences
Licenses
Saved settings
User-specific data

When users delete these files thinking they’re freeing space:

Apps reset themselves
Data gets re-downloaded
Behavior becomes unpredictable

The One Exception

If you have already uninstalled an app and no longer use it, removing its leftover support files is perfectly safe.

Why Third-Party Mac Cleaner Apps Cause Problems

Many Mac cleaner and optimizer apps work like Windows utilities. They:

Delete files by type, not purpose
Ignore why macOS created them
Remove data you’ll need immediately after

This is why users often:

Have to re-enter usernames and passwords
Reapprove permissions
Experience app glitches after “cleanup”

macOS already manages storage intelligently. Third-party cleaners usually fight the system instead of helping it.

The Safest Way to Clean Your Mac

Mac cleanup doesn’t have to be complicated.

What You Can Safely Remove

Apps you installed but no longer use
Old downloads
Large media files you don’t need anymore

When you clean your own content, you’re working with macOS—not against it.

Overoptimization: The Real Cause of Most Mac Problems

Most Mac issues don’t come from neglect. They come from overoptimization.

Users often:

Obsess over cleanliness
Delete files constantly
Try to “outsmart” macOS

Ironically, this creates more slowdowns, bugs, and instability.

If your Mac is running normally, do nothing. macOS is already maintaining itself.

When Optimization Is Actually Needed

If your Mac is slow due to:

Older hardware
Past over-cleaning
Incorrect system changes

Then optimization should be done carefully and intentionally—not randomly.

Only apply trusted, safe techniques when there’s a real performance issue.

Conclusion: Let macOS Do Its Job

Good Mac maintenance is not about deleting files regularly. It’s about understanding how macOS works and respecting its design.

If you don’t fully understand why a file exists, don’t delete it.
If your Mac is running fine, don’t optimize it.

Most importantly, remember this:

macOS performs best when you allow it to manage itself.

By focusing only on removing your own unused content and avoiding aggressive cleanup habits, you’ll keep your Mac fast, stable, and reliable for years to come.

How to Clean and Optimize Mac the Right Way (Without Breaking Anything)

Crazyerror

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January 5, 2026

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How to Clean and Optimize Mac the Right Way (Without Breaking Anything)

If you’ve been using a Mac for a while and feel it’s slowly getting cluttered or less responsive, you’re not alone. Many Mac users — whether tech-savvy or not — look for ways to clean up their drive and optimize mac performance. Unfortunately, a lot of advice online does more harm than good.

The good news? macOS already handles most optimization on its own. What your Mac really needs is simple, safe monthly maintenance — not aggressive cleanup tools or risky manual deletions.

This guide walks you through what you should do once a month to keep your Mac healthy — and just as importantly, what you should avoid doing in the name of optimization.

Read: 7 Mac Security Settings Every MacBook User Should Know

Restart Your Mac Regularly (Yes, It Matters)

If you mostly put your MacBook or iMac to sleep instead of restarting it, background processes can stay active for weeks. Over time, this can lead to stuck tasks, memory pressure, and minor performance issues.

A simple restart helps:

Clear stuck background processes
Allow pending system tasks to finish
Refresh memory usage

Best practice:

Restart your Mac every 10–14 days if you use sleep mode often
If your Mac stays on all the time (clamshell mode, external monitor, desk setup), a monthly restart is still very healthy

This alone solves more problems than most “optimizer” apps ever will.

Review Login Items and Background Apps Every Month

Many users install apps years ago and forget about them. Even if you don’t open them anymore, some apps quietly launch at startup and run in the background — consuming memory, CPU, and battery.

How to check startup apps:

Click the Apple menu
Go to System Settings
Select General → Login Items & Extensions

At the top, you’ll see Login Items.
Remove any apps that don’t need to start automatically.

Check background activity:

Just below, you’ll see App Background Activities.
These apps can sync, update, or run processes in the background.

Disable anything you don’t truly need. You may need to enter your administrator password.

This small step can noticeably improve performance and battery life.

Manage Storage the Smart Way (Not Obsessively)

Macs don’t slow down only when storage is completely full. Performance issues start when storage pressure builds, even before that point.

You don’t need massive free space — but you do need breathing room.

Rule of thumb:
Keep at least 20% of your drive free.

Once a month, review:

Large unused apps
Old installers in the Downloads folder
Forgotten screen recordings
Big files you no longer need

If you’re below that 20% mark, it’s time to be selective. Remove anything that doesn’t truly need to live on your Mac.

Keep Apps and macOS Updated (It’s More Important Than You Think)

Many users ignore update notifications or click “Later” endlessly. That’s a mistake.

App updates often fix:

Memory leaks
Background bugs
Compatibility issues
Performance problems

Update your apps:

Open the App Store
Click Updates in the sidebar
Install available updates

Update macOS:

Go to System Settings → General → Software Update
Automatic updates are usually enabled by default
Click the ⓘ (info) button next to Automatic Updates
Make sure all update options are turned on

Important tip:
If a major macOS upgrade is released (not a small patch), it’s wise to wait a few weeks. This allows Apple and app developers to fix early bugs and compatibility issues.

Confirm Your Backups Are Actually Working

A backup that hasn’t run recently gives a false sense of security.
And a backup that isn’t recent… isn’t really a backup.

Check monthly:

If you use iCloud, confirm syncing is active and complete
If you use Time Machine, ensure the last backup finished successfully

An outdated or failed backup won’t help you when something goes wrong.

What You Should NOT Do to “Optimize” Your Mac

This is where most users unintentionally damage their system.

You don’t need Mac cleaner or optimizer apps

Modern versions of macOS already handle basic optimization automatically. Most cleanup tools:

Run constantly in the background
Consume system resources
Clear caches that macOS rebuilds anyway

Regular cache clearing actually hurts performance over time.

Don’t delete system or Library files manually

Deleting random files or folders — especially inside Library or system directories — can:

Break app permissions
Cause instability
Trigger update failures

Never remove system files unless you’re following professional, verified instructions.

Resetting SMC or NVRAM is NOT maintenance

These are troubleshooting tools, not routine cleanup steps.

NVRAM resets are rarely needed
SMC resets are only for specific hardware issues

Using them unnecessarily does nothing for performance.

Stop micromanaging battery charging

Modern MacBooks manage battery health intelligently.

Battery health declines mainly due to:

Age
Heat

Not everyday charging habits.

What you should do instead:

Go to System Settings → Battery
Click the ⓘ next to Battery Health
Make sure Optimized Battery Charging is turned ON

That’s it. Use your Mac normally.

The Only Mac Maintenance You Need Once a Month

If you remember nothing else, remember this simple checklist:

Restart your Mac
Review login items and background apps
Check storage health
Update apps and macOS
Confirm backups are working

No cleaning apps.
No aggressive tweaks.
No risky deletions.

Conclusion

Mac optimization doesn’t require complicated tools or extreme actions. In fact, most performance issues come from over-maintaining rather than neglect.

By following a simple monthly routine and avoiding harmful “optimization” myths, you can keep your Mac running smoothly for years — safely and reliably.

If your Mac is already very sluggish, these steps may not be enough on their own. In that case, a deeper optimization approach may be required.

If this guide helped you, consider following Crazy Errors for more practical tech tips, fixes, and solutions.
And ask yourself — what’s one thing you’ll stop doing on your Mac starting today?

Windows 11 PIN Not Working? Fix Login Screen Error Easy Guide

How to

Crazyerror

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December 30, 2025

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Windows 11 PIN Not Working? Fix Login Screen Error Easy Guide

The Windows Hello PIN is one of the easiest ways to log in to your Windows 11 PC. Unfortunately, a lot of people also experience problems with PIN Not Working on Windows 11 Login Screen, where the option to use the PIN disappears, users receive error messages stating that “Your PIN is no longer available,” or it won’t work on the login screen. This guide will help you find the reasons, troubleshooting steps, and resolutions to bring back the PIN function in Windows 11.

Read: How to Stop Annoying Pop-Ups on Windows 11

Common Reasons for PIN Not Working on Windows 11

Corrupt Windows Hello settings or the NGC folder
Recent security or system updates
TPM (Trusted Platform Module) changes or issues
Corrupted system files
Conflicting third-party software

Knowledge is power, and if you know the cause, you can choose the most appropriate troubleshooting method.

Step-by-Step Solutions to Fix PIN Not Working on Windows 11

1. Sign In Using Alternative Methods:

If your PIN Not Working on the Windows 11 Login Screen, try signing in with your password for your Microsoft account or another available method (such as a password or fingerprint). This is done to have access to your machine and further troubleshoot.

2. Remove and Re-Add Your PIN

Go to Settings > Accounts > Sign-in options.
On the PIN (Windows Hello) screen, select Remove.
Confirm with your account password.
Restart your computer.
Choose the same menu and click on Set up to set up a new PIN.

3. Use the “I Forgot My PIN” Option:

On the logon screen, click I forgot my PIN.
Follow the prompts to reset your PIN with your Microsoft account password.

4. Boot into Safe Mode and Delete the NGC Folder:

The NGC directory contains PIN settings. Here, corruption can block PIN login.

At the log-in screen, hold the Shift key, then click Restart under the Power icon.
In the Windows Recovery Environment, navigate to Troubleshoot > Advanced options > Startup Settings > Restart.
Choose Safe Mode.
Navigate to:
C:\Windows\ServiceProfiles\LocalService\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Ngc
Delete the Ngc folder.
Restart your PC and add a new PIN.

5. Clear TPM (Trusted Platform Module) Data:

If your device employs TPM for protection, PIN sign-in might be impacted by modifications and corruption.

To do so, open Windows Security and go to >Device Security > Security processor troubleshooting> Run.
Select Clear TPM and follow the prompts.
Try to set up your PIN again after your computer restarts.

6. Perform a System Restore:

If you notice the issue after doing an update or installing an app:

Type Create a restore point and press Enter.
Click System Restore and then follow the steps in the wizard to choose a restore point.

7. Update Windows and Drivers:

Occasionally, Microsoft issues patches for known issues:

Navigate to Settings > Windows Update.
Update and install everything you can find.

Additional Tips for: PIN Not Working on Windows 11 Login Screen

Remove recently installed apps that may conflict with Windows Hello.
While it’s still uncertain why the toolbar is missing, here is how you can troubleshoot: Also, make sure to check for group policy changes or changes to your registry if you are on a managed or work device.
If none of the preceding steps work, contact Microsoft Support.

Conclusion:

A broken PIN on the Windows 11 login screen can be a pesky thing, but there are typically ways to solve this problem. Begin with the no-brain circuits using alternative sign-in methods or resetting the PIN before progressing to Safe Mode or deleting the NGC folder, or clearing TPM. Also, other future bugs could’ve been prevented by having your system updated and looking for fresh changes. If you pick up your PIN, then you will be able to recover your PIN in this way and get more use out of accessing your Windows 11 device.

Easy Ways Temporarily Deactivate Facebook Account: A Step-by-Step Guide

Crazyerror

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December 26, 2025

0

Easy Ways Temporarily Deactivate Facebook Account: A Step-by-Step Guide

Facebook also gives its users the choice to delete the account or simply deactivate it. If you want to take and be away for some time without completely shutting down your account, then ensuring that your Facebook account is deactivated is the best option. This guide takes you through the process of How to Temporarily Deactivate Facebook Account: A Step-by-Step Guide

Read: How to Find Live Videos on Instagram Without Following Anyone

Step 1: Open the Facebook App

To begin with, locate and tap on the Facebook application on your mobile phone. To make a better understanding, we will use the image below for an illustration of the my profile icon position. In the lower right part of the screen, there is a menu icon (sometimes this is called the ‘three horizontal lines’). Click on this icon to go on.

Step 2: Access Settings and Privacy

After succeeding in opening the menu, please scroll down and then click on the Settings & Privacy option. This will unveil more options regarding the settings features.

Step 3: Find in Account Settings

Then, from the drop-down options, choose Settings. From there you are brought to the area of the main settings, where you can manage many things regarding your Facebook account.

Step 4: Go to the Account Center

In the settings, you can find the Account Center available option. Click on it so that you can go to the section where you can manage personal information, account control, and other connected services.

Step 5: Select from among Personal Details and Account Ownership.

From the Account Center, the user should choose Personal Details and should select the option of Account Ownership and Control. This is the one that has features allowing the user on the website to manage his or her account status including deactivation.

Step 6: Make your choice between the Deactivation and Deletion Options.

Next, you’ll see the Deactivation and Deletion options. Continue to tap on this to proceed. This option will lead to two choices either Deactivate Account which is temporary or Delete Account which is permanent.

Step 7: You should select “Deactivate Account”

For a temporary break, select Deactivate Account. Facebook will request you to perform a security check and will ask for the login password. Type in your password and click on Continue.

Step 8: Follow Final Prompts

After confirmation of the password, please follow the other prompts as initially suggested device. When you complete these steps, Facebook will deactivate your account. At this time, your page cannot be seen by others. If you want to log in again at a later date, your account will be active and you will be able to do so.

Conclusion

Now we are getting to the favorable one that sounds appealing to all users. This feature is uncomplicated and all you have to do is to use such a comfortable option to utilize the service without using it. If you want to take a break from the platform, you can quite easily deactivate your account using the aforementioned procedures. In case you wish to come back it could be as simple as logging in and your account including the profile is untouched except for time.